Frequent Aquarium Questions

• How do I set up an tank for Angelfish?
  
  
• I have a 5 gallon tank in my office, and I want to put my company truck in my tank. I know you do not recommend putting anything in my tank that is not aquarium safe. If there some clear sealant that I can put on a metal item that will make it aquarium safe?
  
  
• I am planning a 55g marine tank with live rock and sand. What is a sump and how is it set-up and used?
  
  
• I am about to set up my first aquarium. It will be a 55 gal fish-only marine tank with live sand and live rock. My question is what do I need as far as equipment for the tank, including filtration, aeration, water movement, lighting etc. I have gotten some books on starting marine aquariums but they have confused me more than ever with diferent types of set ups and quarantine tanks. What do you suggest for the beginner?
  
  
• What kind of substrate should be used in a saltwater tank? I have heard that sandbox sand that can be bought from hardware stores is okay.
  
  
• I am setting up a fresh water tank 60 Gals with Flora Base for plants and will be adding Bala Sharks, Cat Fish, turtles, cray fish and tree frogs. Will the Flora Base harm the fish?
  
  
• I have a 55gal saltwater show tank. I want to convert it to a reef. I have a wet/dry filter. What kind of protein skimmer should I use and what kind of lighting? Is the protein skimmer enough filtration?
  
  
• What are some of the things I can do to ensure a healthy environment for my fish?
  
  
• My aquarium has been running for about 1 week and a half and i want to change it around so i can see more of my fish. How do I go about doing this? removing the fish then doing it? or do it while they are in there or what?
  
  
• I set up a new tank yesterday and dechlorinized the water. Why are my old fish dying in the new aquarium?
  
  

• How do I set up an tank for Angelfish?
  
  We assume you mean freshwater angelfish as you did not specify. Angelfish require a larger well-decorated tank of 40 to 55 gallons with well-filtered soft water maintained at 78 degrees using a heater. The tank should be densely decorated with live or artificial plants and should be well-established using hardy fish such as platys for about ten to twelve weeks before introducing Angelfish.
  
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• I have a 5 gallon tank in my office, and I want to put my company truck in my tank. I know you do not recommend putting anything in my tank that is not aquarium safe. If there some clear sealant that I can put on a metal item that will make it aquarium safe?
  
  The only way you could do that would be to seal the object in a block of cast acrylic. There are companies that can take any object, place it in a mold, then pour in hot clear plastic, which when cooled, will be blocks of clear acrylic with the object encased within.
  
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• I am planning a 55g marine tank with live rock and sand. What is a sump and how is it set-up and used?
  
  In the world of aquariums, "Sump" is a general term used for an open basin or container of water placed below the aquarium which is fed water from the surface of the fish or reef tank. Water is then delivered back to the aquarium above, using a pump connected to or inside of the sump. A sump can also be the part of a filter system that also has an open area for pumps and/or protein skimmers and other devices used to improve or monitor water conditions.
  
  Sumps can be classified in three categories, Berlin Reservoirs, Wet-Dry Filters and a specialized type of system called a Refugium. These systems may vary widely in design, shape and mechanics, a fact that prevents us from being able to provide generic set-up instructions. However, almost all are typically a large box-like acrylic or glass tank that has been divided in the center into two sections. One section is where water from the aquarium is delivered. The other section is used to allow a pump to return water back to the aquarium.
  
  The word "sump" usually refers to the section that contains the pump or pump intake. However, in the case of a Berlin Reservoir, which is a completely open tank, the entire reservoir is sometimes referred to as the "sump."
  
  Because manufacturers of these filter systems use different designs, providing precise set-up information is practically impossible. Unfortunately, as sales on the Internet is a relatively new concept, many of the manufacturers that build these types of filters have yet to provide good set-up instructions. The original sales outlet for all aquarium equipment was the local aquarium store. The sales staff of the store would assemble these filter systems for the customer, so instructions were not needed. Though some manufacturers have started to include simple assembly cut-sheets, online customers are left in a position where they need to figure things out for themselves. The trade-off is that products bought online are considerably less expensive.
  
  The good news is that for most sump-type filter designs, some basic principles in design have to be followed, due to the way these systems function mechanically. All of these systems have several things in common.
  
  Because these filters are open systems, they can only be fed by water drawn from the surface of the aquarium. If they were fed from below the surface, the filter below would overflow and flood when the pump was turned off. Therfore, they all require the use of an overflow prefilter of some sort, either built-into the tank or of a design that hangs on the back of the aquarium.
  
  Typically, a larger diameter hose, usually 1-1/4" I.D. is used to connect the overflow prefilter to the filter below the tank. Most of these filters come with all of the drain plumbing. Connection fittings and the hose required for feeding the filter from the tank are usually included with the filter.
  
  What is rarely included are the return pump; the pump intake plumbing that connects the pump to the filter; and the return hose and plumbing that connects the pump returning water to the aquarium. These must be purchased separately. On good systems these items are rarely supplied, as there are many possible configurations for the pump side of the filter. Because the method used is a matter of personal preference or depends on the aquarium being used, high-end manufacturers leave these items out of the system package. Our experience has shown that those systems that include everything needed are usually of much lower quality. These systems limit the hobbyist in how they can set-up their system.
  
  Some folks use submersible pumps. Others use external pumps. Some people use a simple return plumbing that returns water over the back of the aquarium. Other hobbyists use a connection for the return pump included with the built-in overflow prefilter coluumn inside the aquarium. Very experienced hobbyists may even drill the back of the fish tank and plumb the return line from the pump through the side or back panels of the aquarium.
  
  For beginners, we usually recommend using a submersible pump which feeds water either over the side of the tank or through the connection supplied with a built-in overflow that came with the tank. In all cases, the pump should always be equipped with a valve for controlling water flow to the tank. Hobbyists often buy too large a pump for this application and will need to be able to lower the volume of water flow so as not to cause flooding. The pump size depends on the tank size and also the type of overflow prefilter used. If a hang-on overflow is used, the pump should be large enough to allow the turnover of a volume of water equal to no more than five times the aquarium volume. If the tank has a built-in overflow, the flow can be up to ten times the volume of the aquarium.
  
  For beginners setting up a marine aquarium, we recommend that an in-sump model of protein skimmer be placed next to the submersible pump in the sump section of the filter. These skimmers are very easy to set-up and require no further explanation. For those of you that want to use a more sophisticated external protein skimmer, below are some diagrams illustrating possible plumbing configurations of the filter and protein skimmer. Please note that larger versions of these images will soon be available as part of a series of articles we are planning on aquarium plumbing.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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• I am about to set up my first aquarium. It will be a 55 gal fish-only marine tank with live sand and live rock. My question is what do I need as far as equipment for the tank, including filtration, aeration, water movement, lighting etc. I have gotten some books on starting marine aquariums but they have confused me more than ever with diferent types of set ups and quarantine tanks. What do you suggest for the beginner?
  
  We usually do not answer FAQ questions that require detailed answers as we have an email-based support system for those. However, as you have done some reading, we'll do this one and refer others to it when they ask.
  
  The first thing we suggest is to read our articles so you at least know the basics. We also recommend that at first, you not concern yourself with quarantine tanks, refugiums, ultraviolet sterilizers and other non-essential equipment. You will understand those more after you gain some hands-on experience and do some more reading. Unlike many hobbies, keeping aquaria is best attempted by doing some reading, then diving right in, but keeping things simple in the beginning. There is no need to get every bell and whistle up-front. The type of aquarium you are planning is often called a FOWLER tank, which is short for "Fish-Only With Live Rock." For that type of tank, we recommend the following:
  
  A wet-dry filter, a good pump for the wet-dry filter, a protein skimmer, a pump for the skimmer (many in-sump skimmers come with a good pump), a hydrometer and a thermometer. You should also consider getting two smaller powerheads or pumps for inside the aquarium to improve circulation for the live rock. Aeration is unecessary.
  
  Because you will be using live rock, you could substitute a Berlin sump for the wet-dry filter. The live rock, if provided with good circulation and you use good lighting, will handle the biological filter functions without using bio material (such as bio balls), so a Berlin sump will work fine for a FOWLER tank.
  
  To properly light live rock, we recommend a basic power compact fluorescent lighting system. Regular fluorescents will not be enough, and metal halides would be too much unless you are planning a full-blown reef tank.
  
  The tank should be purchased "reef-ready" which means it will be equipped with a built-in overflow prefilter box right from the factory. This will save a lot of time, especially for beginners. The overflow will be used to connect the tank to the wet-dry filter or Berlin sump. If you already have a new tank and it is not equipped with a built-in overflow column, seriously consider returning it and trading up. If that is impossible, you will need a hang-on tank prefilter which will allow you to pull water over the side into a box where the water will drain into the filter or sump below.
  
  Here is a diagram showing the mechanics of a basic set-up using a wet-dry filter for a tank equipped with a built-in overflow. Please note that a Berlin sump can be substituted for the wet-dry and set-up of the two types of systems is virtually identical.
  
  
  
  The protein skimmer will either sit in the W/D filter or sump, or can be an external model which sits outside the filter or sump. Protein skimmers draw water from and return water to either a wet-dry filter or a Berlin sump. There are hang-on tank models, but most of these are not that efficient. We usually recommend in-sump models for beginners.
  
  More tips: Invest in some good test kits that measure ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, and alkalinity. These will serve you well. Testing water will not only alert you to potential problems before they become disasters, but will also help you better understand the chemistry of your aquarium. Join a good aquarium forum, like our forums. They will allow you to ask questions and get rapid answers in a discussion type environment where everybody helps one another. Our forums feature many excellent moderators who truly enjoy helping beginners.
  
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• What kind of substrate should be used in a saltwater tank? I have heard that sandbox sand that can be bought from hardware stores is okay.
  
  Sorry to say, but you have heard wrong. One more example of all the horrible aquarium information available on the Internet. A good book should always be your primary source of information.
  
  
  
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• I am setting up a fresh water tank 60 Gals with Flora Base for plants and will be adding Bala Sharks, Cat Fish, turtles, cray fish and tree frogs. Will the Flora Base harm the fish?
  
  Flora Base (by Red Sea) is designed for aquaria and will not harm fish at all. However, we do see some big problems with your plan. The Bala Sharks and Turtles will eat your plants. The Turtles will eat your Crayfish. Tree Frogs are terrestrial animals and cannot be kept in an aquarium. If you are planning on setting up a vivarium, with a half land, half water tank, please be aware that Bala Sharks will not do well in this situation.
  
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• I have a 55gal saltwater show tank. I want to convert it to a reef. I have a wet/dry filter. What kind of protein skimmer should I use and what kind of lighting? Is the protein skimmer enough filtration?
  
  The best type of lighting for a reef tank is a metal halide system that also has one or more 7100K fluorescent or Power Compact lamps. The metal halide system we like for your tank is a 48" Metal Halide/Power Compact Combo Fan-Cooled fixture with two 175 Watt MH lamps and two Power Compact 7100K lamps. However, metal halide light systems have two disadvantages. They can heat the water to the point where it becomes necessary to buy a chiller. They are also expensive. The other option is to use a 48" four 96 watt-lamp, Power Compact system. This option will be less costly and will not produce as much heat. It will produce plenty of light for almost all corals except for true hard corals and some stony corals. What we usually recommend is to check the tank temperature. If your tank drops down to 72 to 74 degrees without a heater, then you can do a metal halide system. Otherwise, the Power Compact system is your best choice. As to what skimmer to use? A good one! We like stand-alone skimmers as opposed to the type that you drop in a reservoir. Venturi skimmers are still the most widely-used and they are proven performers. We don't recommend name brands when answering a FAQ. Yes, a protein skimmer is the only filter that you will need, provided you have very good water circulation in the tank (use several powerheads), use 1-1/2 to 2 pounds of live rock per gallon, and don't keep lots of fish in your reef.
  
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• What are some of the things I can do to ensure a healthy environment for my fish?
  
  Knowledge is the most powerful tool for maintaining a healthy aquarium. Understanding the environment and the animals that live in your fish tank is the key to success. There are many sources of information available to today's aquarium hobbyist. There are books, videos, and CD ROM's to explore; aquarium Web sites, internet discussion groups and forums to browse and exchange information; aquarium clubs and associations to join; and quite a few great aquarium stores from which to obtain advice, healthy livestock and state-of-the-art aquariums and equipment. Learn all you can before you have problems, and try to follow these basic time-proven suggestions:

Find a good aquarium store and follow their advice. Make friends with them. Support the aquarium retail store whose staff spends valuable time helping you by obtaining your fish, equipment, and supplies there.
Buy good equipment to begin with, and set your aquarium up right the first time. Buy a good book first. Read it. Then buy your aquarium. We have seen many new aquarium owners who skimped on the initial aquarium system because they were afraid to invest too much before they were sure they would enjoy the hobby. Then they'd go out and buy loads of fish to put into an aquarium that was ill-equipped for the large population. The result was often a disaster. Spend the money up front for a good, complete system, or you might find yourself spending twice that amount replacing fish that should have lived in the first place.
Maintain a stable environment. Make changes to the aquarium ecology slowly. Take your time stocking the tank. Add nutritional supplements, if applicable, using a slow-dose method. Use a light timer to maintain a constant photoperiod. Use good temperature control equipment (heater and/or chiller) and a good thermometer. Top off the aquarium frequently for evaporation. Do smaller water changes more frequently to avoid sudden fluctuations in the environment.
Don't over-stock your aquarium. Calculate how many animals you can keep in the aquarium. Allow some room for the growth of the fish and invertebrates you purchase. Be conservative. Learn about the specimens you want, and don't buy fish that will grow too large for the tank unless you are prepared to transfer them to a larger aquarium in the near-future. Once your aquarium is stable with a full and healthy population, resist the temptation to buy "just one more fish."
Be patient. Take your time stocking a new aquarium. Select your specimens carefully and go slow. Allow at least two weeks between each introduction of fish for a freshwater tank and at least three to four weeks for a marine aquarium. If your aquarium will be due for a water change soon, wait until after the water change to purchase new fish.
There are many different ways to set up and maintain an aquarium. Almost all aquarium methods call for a schedule of regular water changes. How much and how often will depend on the type of aquarium you have and the filtration method you use. Set up a program of water changes that works for you and follow it. We've found that changing smaller amounts of water more frequently seems to work best for both our clients and our own fish-holding system.
Don't clean your aquarium too much! An aquarium is (hopefully) an ecologically-balanced, closed-aquatic system. It is not and should not be a sterile environment which always remains squeaky clean! Don't change the water too often! Let a little algae grow! Learn about algae growth and how you can control it naturally using water chemistry and herbivorous animals as your weapons. If you haven't noticed already, every time you stick your hand in the tank, the fish get stressed and freak out! After all, they have no place to go to get away from that giant, evil, five-armed predator that keeps trying to eat them! Stressed fish eventually become diseased fish.
Buy a test kit and use it. Testing the water quality in an aquarium on a regular basis can reveal minor problems in an aquarium before they become major disasters.
Don't play with your aquarium too much! An aquarium can either be thing of beauty to behold, or a toy to play with and/or slave over. Once you have a nice stable environment with healthy fish and/or invertebrates, follow your regular maintenance program. Resist the temptation to continually rearrange the tank, change the filtration around, or swap out fish too often. Remember that every change you make to the environment or population of an aquarium affects the chemistry and ecology of the tank. Frequent changes may be stressful to both the fish, invertebrates, the microbial population that keeps your fish alive . . . and you!

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• My aquarium has been running for about 1 week and a half and i want to change it around so i can see more of my fish. How do I go about doing this? removing the fish then doing it? or do it while they are in there or what?
  
  You should not move decorations around so you can see your fish better. You should add more decorations and then you will see your fish better. Confused? Don't be. This is a common mistake made by beginners. The more cover you provide for your fish, the more comfortable they will feel and the less they will hide. You should not do anything right now. Give your fish a break and leave them alone for a few weeks. When you put your hands in the tank, you stress the fish. You stress the fish even more when you remove them from the tank. When you eventually do add more decorations, you should do so with the fish in the aquarium.
  
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• I set up a new tank yesterday and dechlorinized the water. Why are my old fish dying in the new aquarium?
  
  Without more information, it would be impossible to answer this question, so it won't be entered into the FAQs. Our guess is that you added too many fish to the tank with your old fish and they are sressing out from the rapid change in the environment. You have to use old water and gravel when you set up a new tank if you will be transferring old fish to the new aquarium.
  
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