Swim Bladder Problems?

[GutterRat]

new to the board, and have a question....

little history first...75 gal fw (recently all life was transferred over from 55 gal tank, including all but a gallon of the original water, rocks, plastic plants, etc). Fish: male/female betta, 3 angels, 2 plecos, numerous platys, 2 danios. Equip: two powerheads for circulation, hang on side Penguin Bio-Wheel (w/o wheel, and with new carbon cartridge {added today}, air stone inside uplift tube of u/g filter (not used as u/g filter, just additional circulation and oxygen), approx 50 lbs stones, 10 lbs gravel, wter temp is ~80-81

Just last week added 10 neons which didn't last anytime. Most lost to powerheads (fish too small for tank), others to food i suppose....lesson learned.

This afternoon, the female betta has been darting around the tank, sinking to the bottom, darting in circles, generally acting wired to the max. Gill slits are gaping, coloration is normal, had been eating. No other fishes have any symptoms of any illness or problem.

Have never seen swim bladder problems so don't know what I am looking at here.

btw, have been keeping fish for years so not new to the hobby, and the 55 gal tank that was transferred to the 75 was over a year old.

Any adivce, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

David

[vjvl51]

Hi David

First, I’ll say welcome.

A fish with swim bladder problems usually swims like a drunk walks. (I hope that makes sense to you.) What I think may have happened is you had a ph shift due to all the moving. (You said recent move so I am assuming within the last 7 to 10 days.) When you move the gravel that has been established for a while, you upset the bacteria. This can result in a ph shift among other things. It is good to move the gravel, but the water should be checked for ph, ammonia and nitrites until you are sure everything is back to normal. Some fish are more sensitive to this than others.

I’m quoting from Baensch’s Aquarium Atlas

“Acidosis and Akalosis

Symptoms: Affected fish display an excess of mucous, inflammation of the skin and bleeding and erosion of the gills. Their darting movements can also be a key. They often jump in an attempt to leave the water. Respiration will increase and they may be seen at the surface, gasping for air.” (Gill slits gaping is a sign of increased respiration.)

“Cause: The problem stems from fluctuating pH values, that is the concentration of hydrogen ions. . . .”

“Action: The best remedy is an immediate water change. . .”

This is my first guess. I’ll do some more reading and post again if I think something else may apply.

Vickie

[vjvl51]

Hi David

Here is a web site that I frequently use for fish problems.
http://world.std.com/~enjolras/symtreat.htm
The abnormal swimming characteristic is 3/4 of the way down the page. This may give you some other ideas.

Vickie

[GutterRat]

thanks for the replies guys.

The fish has expired. It didn't take long. I'd go along with the pH shift, but would that not show in other fish? This is the only fish that is acting strangely. Every one else seems to have adjusted well.

The fish diseases page was a nice link, thanks viv.
David

[GutterRat]

Hey Vickie,

pH problem confirmed and treatment under way. Total loss is now at 13 +. Female betta, oldest angel, 11 neon tetras, and platys...no big loss for them, but hate to lose anything due to my own ignorance :( . Lesson learned. Have moved marine aquarioums without los of life, new experience with freshwater.

Thanks again.
David

[vjvl51]

David

Sorry about the loss of life. We all learn new things every day. Fresh water is a lot like salt water aquariums with some minor differences (I hope! I'm just starting with salt.)

I'm glad we could help you.

Vickie

[GutterRat]

Vickie, Saltwater may be a bit of a pain in the but is worth the effort in the end. I was so pleased with how my 55 reef was going.....after three years one heater stuck on and boiled the tank while I was gone for three days. Best luck with yours.

Anyway, nother question....I have been told that if an aquarium has been used to house reptiles, specifically snakes, that it can no longer be used as an aquarium. Any truth to this?

Thanks again
David

[vjvl51]

I have been told the same from a few sources. It appears the reasoning behind this is that the urine can get under/in the silicon seals. Silicon is not smooth but full of nocks and crannies, so I've been told. Due to the flexibility of silicon, there is no way of ensuring that all the urine is removed. A small amount of reptile urine is supposed to be toxic to fish.

True?? I don't know. At the cost of aquariums, I wasn't willing to take the risk.

As to the heater problem. On all my tanks, my temperature is electronically controlled (read that as computer) to within a tenth of a degree. This turns the heaters on and off. I then set the heater control to turn off, about 1 degree above the set point. If my electronic control should fail, the heater control (since it is always on) should turn off the heater. The only problem that I've had with that arrangement is when the power fails and I have no heat. ;) I plan on putting the salt tank on the same system.

Vickie

[GutterRat]

Vickie, do you know if the reptile urine will raise the pH of the water? Have been trying to get the pH down in my tank and can't see to make any headway whatsoever. Reading remains "off the scale" of my test kit. Haven't had any loss of life the last two days, so...........

David

[vjvl51]

Hi David

I was told that it was a chemical, other than ammonia, that was toxic to fish. Let's assume that is not the problem and try to pinpoint your pH problem.

Now some questions?

By "off the scale", what is the highest pH that your kit will read? I have two kits - one for regular pH (6.0 to 7.6) and one for high pH (7.2 to 8.8). My well water runs 7.2 to 7.8, depending upon the time of the season. That is why I had to get the high pH test kit.

What water are you using?
What is the pH of the water before you put it into the tank?

Let's start from there and see where we go.

Vickie

[GutterRat]

test kit is Wardleys...max reading is 8.4

high range seems to test 8.3/8.2

tap water is source of water, always has been, and tests at 8.4!

Any way to get this pH down other than a complete water change which would be worse than what I have going on now. There's been no further loss of life.

Will have water tested a lfs today.

David

[vjvl51]

Hi David

I've never heard of tap water testing that high, but anything is possible, I suppose! Let's wait and see what your LFS results are. My guess, right now would be a defective test kit.

By the time we get this figured out, whatever was wrong with your water may have cleared up.

Vickie