How Many Gallons for Wet/Dry Filter?

[SickLid]

I bought a wet/dry filter (SeaClear Vanguard Wet/Dry Filter) in December for an 80 gallon freshwater set-up that I would like to do.

I have been looking around at aquariums and found one that I like in particular. It is a Flat Back Hexagonal Aquarium. I noticed that the only difference in the dimensions of the 65 gal and the 85 gallon is the height. I personally would like more length for more gallons. The 90 gallon tank has the same height as the 65 gallon, but it is a foot longer.

Now the question is: can my trickle filter handle that volume? On my filter, the volume where the media goes is about 4.5 gallons (13"x10"x8"). The documentation that came with my filter said that it is for aquariums up to 80 gallons. However, my research on the web indicates that the media capacity of my filter can support tanks up to 150 gallons.

Which is correct? Is it likely that my trickle filter can support 90 gallons, assuming that I fully stock the tank? I know that the biological load on the filter is dependant on the surface area for bacteria growth, I figure I will have about 103 ft^2 of surface area in the filter.

As far as the filter set-up, this is what I plan:

The gph will be 4 times the volume of the tank (with a little cushion for head). The media compartment will be filled with Bio-Balls and 1 Litre of Seachem Matrix BioMedia. I will have a power filter on the aquarium to help in the removal of suspended waste. I might be persuaded to add a sponge filter to the sump or the tank. I am told by AquariumPros that my Overflow Box can handle flow rates in excess of 500 gallons per hour.

M

PS: I am also wondering if I can fit a heater in the sump, I figure that the water depth will be about 9 1/2". Is it possible to put a heater horizontally instead of verticially? Or maybe diagonally? I would like to split the heat duty among two or three heaters.

[FinAddict]

First thing I need to know is if the tank is freshwater or saltwater.

[SickLid]

Sorry,

It is going to be a 90 gallon freshwater tank.

M

[FinAddict]

From what you have said it sounds like your filter will handle more than the 90 gallon freshwater tank and as far as the heater for the sump it will work fine but I have found with mine that it is really not needed and I took the sump heater out of mine. I also have a freshwater 135 gal tank with a wet dry doing aprox 4 .5 times an hour circulation but I also decided to go with a canister filter which will polish the water for clarity and this way you have water flow from both ends of the tank giving more even circulation. Hope this helps.

[SickLid]

I have been eyeing the Fluval 404 for a canister filter- it seems simple enough to maintain. Not really sure what to use it for, except to remove suspended solids. Not really sure what type of media to put in it either- although I am interested in Kent's adsorption resin. Any suggestions? My wet/dry also has an area for chemical filtration- however the canister filter might be better suited for this function since it is a little more of a forced flow than my wet/dry.

Talking about debris filtration- the drain to my overflow box (http://www.aquariumpros.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=APG&Product_Code=MLAPF1&Category_Code=FLpn) has a sponge around it to pre-filter the water going into the wet/dry. My wet/dry came with a filter pad that goes on top of the drip tray. I am wondering if I will need this filter pad since the water is already being pre-filtered with the sponge. I am concerned that the filter pad will cause enough of a blockage that the majority of the water will go through the overflow area and into the sump rather than going through the bio-media.

Once I get the wet/dry started, I would like to leave the bio-media completely alone- meaning I don't want to take any of it out for cleaning- ever. Is the pre-sponge on my overflow box enough to achieve that, assuming that I squeeze it out once a month?

M

[FinAddict]

Fluval, Rena or Magnum filters are all great. I have the Rena. You are exactly right about the suspended solids and by putting it on the opisite end of the tank from the sump return you get better circulation of water to you overflow. As far as filtration in the wet dry it is my opinion that you cannot have to much so use it. The pre filter sponge should not block water flow and it is a necessary filter. I dont know how but I have fish get into my pre filter once a month or so and if it was not there they would definately die. The The pad for the drip tray is a very good bio filter and also gives you more even flow over the bio balls. A And your bio balls should never need to be cleaned if you use the pad and the pre filter sponge.

[SickLid]

I really appreciate your assistance, it has helped me get a picture of how all of this equipment is going to fit together.

So here is what I have planned as far as the aquarium goes. In one corner I will have the return from the wet/dry sump (flow rate ~360-400 gph- Mag Drive 700). In the middle I will have the intake tube from the canister filter. Next, closer to the far corner, I will have the overflow box. Next to it, in the corner, I will have the return from the canister filter, with the flow directed down so it doesn't inadvertently force water into the overflow box. How does that sound?

As far as directing the flow diffusers on the returns, is it better to direct them to the center of the aquarium or just straight out?

The filter pad over the drip tray, if it is used for bio-filtration, how often should you maintain it? And how? Do you basically just some water over it?

Thanks again,

M

[FinAddict]

For the water flow I have found that pointing one down the back of the tank and the other forcing water back down the top front of the tank has produced the best results. For the filter pad in the drip tray I clean mine once a month by washing it out and replace it about 4 times a year. for you situtation you may want to experiment with the water flow directions to achieve the best results with the structure in your tank. I had to play around with mine for a wcouple of weeks to find the best circulation but it is now so clear that the fish look like that are suspended in air not water from any side of the tank. It sounds like you are started in the right direction its just a matter of tweeking the fine details to get the best results now. I really recomend all live plants it really keeps the algee under controll. I leave the lights on for 10 to 12 hours a day and have virtually no algee amd all my lights are flora sun tubes. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.